With the introduction of carbon frames into the longer travel Trail and All Mountain category (and their popularity on the rise), it’s a wonder that some of these frames are built without ISCG tabs. What makes it even more of a challenge is that some of these frames are designed to use a press fit BB (e.g. 2011 Trek Remedy 9.9 shown below) — eliminating the possibility of mounting a guide altogether. Perhaps there’s a really good reason for it, but it sure sucks when the chain keeps dropping and that shiny paint gets nicked up…

Luckily, there’s a solution. Bionicon Chain Guide to the rescue.

Bionicon C Guide V.02 - 19g

Product Tested: BIONICON C.GUIDE V.02
Weight: 19g
Suggested Use: For frames with press fit BB or no ISCG tabs
Retail Price: $49.95

DESIGN & FUNCTION
Measuring  about 2″ x 2.5″, and weighing in at a inconsequential 19g (compared to 90-150g for your standard BB or ISCG mounted guides), it is a godsend for owners of chain guide challenged frames. The hanger is made of aluminum and comes in six different anodized colors: Black, Red, Blue, Green, Orange and for those who want to show their support for Breast Cancer awareness, it also comes in Pink.

The unique piece of ingenuity with the unit is the plastic guide tube. It’s designed to pivot on a hinge, allowing the chain to quietly float unimpeded through it — minimizing chain movement and slap. After installing the guide, I noticed the bike being quieter and my chain drop problem has all but disappeared. What I’m amazed at is there is no perceivable drag; it feels as good or better than any of the traditional chain guides I have run. The other notable feature is the swiveling barrel at the mounting bracket that moves with the chain when shifting. As you shift through the gears, it provides dynamic tensioning without any impingement to the chainline.

INSTALLATION
To install, you can disassemble the unit (into halves) if you don’t want to break the chain, or if you have a master link, it’s easier to pop the master link off and install the guide whole. Position the C Guide underneath the chainstay behind the widest point of the rear tire — this tucks it away nicely, avoiding potential strikes with logs or rocks as well as minimizing the chance it will rub the tire while in the granny gear. A good location I’d recommend is parallel to the rim. Next, use the zip ties included in the box to strap it to the chainstay — don’t worry the ties are dummy proof so you can reposition the guide if you need to. To do this, use a micro flathead screwdriver to release the zip tie and tigthen it up where it works best (see above photo).

Once in position, feed the chain through the guide, reconnect your master link and you’re ready to roll. This took me less than 10 minutes to install with a dry fitting. Make sure you have enough slack on the chain when the suspension is fully compressed, if you’re running the minimum amount of chain this could be an issue and will create excessive drag under full compression and possibly pull the unit right off or worse.

Noteworthy: Paul from Bionicon, wants to let version 1 owners be aware that the units have had some durability issues and that Bionicon has strengthened the hanger and updated the mounting instructions to use a third zip tie around the center of the mount. As mentioned above, be sure to check the chain slack when the suspension is fully compressed, if it is too tight it can simply tear the guide off. Anyone who bought one from the first production and has had it break, can get a free replacement, no questions asked.

Visit Bionicon’s website, for purchasing a guide or to obtain additional information on the Bionicon C Guide.

To see the unit in action, check out the YT video below. I won’t take any credit for it’s quality or music choice but it does show how the product works. Enjoy!

GOOD: Keeps the chain on and you never know it’s there as well as being feather light. Helps keep $3,000 carbon frames looking good.
BAD: At $50, some would ask if that’s ethical. I’d say, you paid how much for that bike? Durability issues that Bionicon is standing behind. Zip ties not the prettiest for mounting.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

Pro-Tec Cyphon SL Helmet Review

Pro-Tec helmets have been linked to the skateboarding industry as long as anyone can remember, so it might come as a surprise when you come across a mountain bike specific product such as the Cyphon SL helmet.

Pro-Tec Cyphon AM helmet in matte black

Product Tested: Pro-Tec Cyphon SL
Construction: In-mold micro shell with removable, lightweight nylon visor
Weight: 380g
Intended Use: XC and AM.
Retail Price: $119.95

Pro-Tec Cyphon SL Interior

DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION
The Cyphon SL helmet’s design is a stark difference from the bowling ball skate helmet of yesteryear and for 2012 it sports 3 color ways – all in a matte finish: Black (shown), Army Acid Green, and White. From the outside you’ll immediately notice the handsomely sculpted shell with 15 enormous vent holes which will keep most hot heads ventilated during rides. I was impressed with the overall form factor and and give it high marks for pure styling.

The construction quality looks to be on par with other popular brands in this category. The exterior shell is molded to the EPS inner core, this makes for a lighter and stronger uni-body construction that smoothly blends the 2 materials together. In fact, I found it difficult to make out any noticeable seam where they meet.

FIT & PERFORMANCE
The interior uses laminated polyester mesh padding in key touch points for a comfortable fit with minimal material usage to keep airflow moving. The straps are standard nylon for durability and are adjustable to get the right comfort and snug fit around the ears and jaw. They snaps together with a standard plastic release buckle.

The bling factor on the Cyphon SL is the BOA fit system. This system works similar to a single lacing system in performance shoes and snowboard boots. An adjustment knob (in the rear) tightens the thin cable which pulls evenly on the rear support cradle, providing a custom tension fit to accommodate varying head shapes. If you need to make an adjustment in case you’re lending the helmet out to a buddy, you simply pull the knob outward; this will release the locking mechanism and your buddy will simply put the helmet on, push the knob back in and turn to the desired comfort fit — and away you go. Super simple.

Cyphon SL front view

Pro-Tec Cyphon BOA Fit System

As you speed along, airflow of the helmet works well with 9 vent holes on the front and top portion and allows air to be pushed in. In the rear, 6 vent holes act as exhaust vents to get the hot air out and keep air flowing from the front to rear as it should. Even though the helmet I tested was black and I was concerned about heat, I found the airflow to work nicely and it didn’t feel especially warm. I thought it worked beautifully as well as being light.

PROTECTION
Protection on the Cyphon is very good all around. With good coverage in front, top and ample coverage in the rear and lower skull areas. It also has enough overhang to keep the ears tucked inside for added protection. It is safety certified with the following: CPSC 1203, AS/NZS 2063:2008 and CE 1078. What all this means is that it’s been tested so your melon will be protected in the event you happen to feel the urge to meet the ground.

For more information on the Cyphon SL or other Pro-Tec products, visit their website. Pro-Tec is a sub brand and operated by Vans, Inc. located in beautiful Cypress, California. Customer Service number is (800) VANS-800.

GOOD: Understated and stealthy looks. Big-A$$ vents to keep air flow going and the BOA fit system to keep things secure and comfortable so you can concentrate on your shred.
BAD: It runs a bit narrow for more oval heads and could be slightly lighter. Higher in the price scale at $119.95 retail.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

Vans Warner SPD Shoe Review

If you told me I’d be wearing Vans again after a 28 year hiatus, I’d say that would be a slim to none chance. But, as circumstance would have it, here I am writing about a pair of shoes by a brand that kick stated my love for bikes oh so long ago.

Vans Warner SPD

Product Tested: Vans Warner SPD Shoes. Size Mens 8.5
Materials: Synthetic leather uppers and rubber waffle soles
Lining: EVA Foam
Color: Black
Weight: 2 lbs 6 oz with cleats
Recommended Use: BMX / AM / DH
Retail Price: $94.95

Vans Warner SPD Soles

At first glance, the Warner SPD look like any classic pair of skate shoes– flip em over and that’s further reinforced by the use of the famous waffle vulcanized soles, but those skate shoe similarities stop when you attach a set of cleats and throw them on for a ride.

What I noticed right away is how easy it is to clip in. The wide cleat channels and the lack of spikes or fancy protrusions make it easy to engage and lock into the pedal. Once in, things feel firm and tight. The shoe body has a comfortable firmness I was use to from all my years of riding in Five10 shoes. The sole is stiff enough to provide the support you’d want for pedaling and flexible enough for those hike a bikes where you’d hardly notice the cleats striking as you walk. A bonus is that you can actually drive with them and leave them on if you happen to be meeting up for a post-ride pint at the local dive.

Vans Warner SPD Rear View

The Warners run a 1/2 size smaller than your standard sports shoe. They do provide a nice laced-up shoe feel without the pressure points I’ve noticed on traditional clip shoes. The velcro strap comes in handy for holding down those laces once tied but that’s about all they’re good for (and are removable as an option). The padded tongue floats freely and sits in place once everything is cinched up.

The construction of these shoes are very similar to any of their skate/bike shoes — very straight-forward and honest. Wear and tear on these would be similar to their skate shoes because the materials are similar. I imagine you can get through a solid season with these and have no worries as they have proven themselves on top UCI downhill courses.

GOOD: Classic skate inspired looks. Comfortable, firm and supportive. Easy pedal engagement. Soles are stiff for pedaling with enough flex for hike a bikes. Could be used for flat pedals as an option.
BAD: Ventilation would be an issue for long rides. Exposed laces could break down over time.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

Blackspire Stinger E Chain Guide Review

Product Tested: Blackspire Stinger E (specific for Shimano E-Type deraileurs)
Mounting Types: ISCG-old, ISCG’05, BB-Mount
Color: Anodized Black
Weight: 90g
Recommended Use: AM / FR
Retail Price: $30-$35

Blackspire Stinger E - 90g (front)

Blackspire Stinger E - 90g (back)

Touted as “the most affordable Dual-Ring chain tensioner in the world”, I would also give it another dubious honor, the best “plug and play” product in its class. There are literally 6 parts to it, not counting the ISCG mounting hardware (making it 9).  They say a 3-year old figured out how to use the iPad because it’s so intuitive; well, I think that same kid can install this chain guide in about 5 minutes. The install is so easy, it should be renamed the “iChainguide”. The Blackspire guys probably believes this because it ships without any instructions.

Apple comparison aside, the stinger will not break the bank. At $35 USD, I didn’t think much of it when I purchased it. But it has exceeded my expectations in many ways. And really, this review is more about illuminating how a part can be made simply, at a great price point and that it just works. Sure, you can go out and buy something more blingy for three times the price and think its lighter or rolls better or whatever, but truth is, this Stinger works really well and is tough as they come. The main wear and tear part being the roller and roller bearings (one on each side), has lasted almost a year without issue. Ridden through sandy conditions and mud with multiple washings, it still works flawlessly, takes a licking and keeps on ticking. It is like a Timex.

Stinger E Installed

Blackspire uses a hard rubber compound for the roller, it’s a strong material and the chain glides over it easily. The durability is helped by the smooth running bearings, with one bearing exposed on the outside, which (initially) I thought would be an issue but has turned out to be a delighter. A system I have previously used, covers both sides of the roller, the flaw in this design is that it creates build-up on either sides of the roller (between the interior backplate and between the exterior cover) — over time, because it’s difficult to clean, the build-up creates drag on the chain and grooves are worn in on the soft roller surface. Ultimately, the fine sand, silt and water causes the bearings to spin poorly and fail. Needless to say, that expensive chain guide got chucked in the trash when it lasted only 4 months.

While it’s quite understandable that aesthetics can demand a handsome price (and sometimes that’s justified), there’s always a place for parts like the Stinger. It’s a smart and sensible design that gets the job done. I feel good about telling people I’m running a $35 part that holds my chain instead of a $110 dollar part that yanks my chain.

GOOD: Price and value. It’s the best $30-$35 you’ll spend. Tough and smooth rollers. Simplistic design. Will be the best install and forget part on your bike. At 90g, weight weenies should give it a second look.
BAD: It was difficult to find anything bad to say other than maybe the beaver on the logo but I’ve forgotten about it.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

WILSON

DIXON

DEXTER

Endorphin SL – 4″ XC Bike

Chilcotin – 6″ Trail Bike

Delirium 2011 Colors

Podium 2011 Colors

Chumba XCL Freeride Edition Review

This is an addendum to a previous frame review on the Chumba XCL I did back in February, where I reviewed the different ride characteristics of 3 different builds.

Chumba XCL - I'll call it the Freeride L edition.

This time around, I went for a light freeride build. I call it my Freeride L edition. There’s not much more about the frame I wanted to review, but more on how the recent upgrades have increased the riding potential of an already capable bike. In building up this version, the “be all you can be” Army recruiting slogan rang true as motivation for what I could get out of this bike. I wanted this bike to be the ultimate trail and  light freeride ripper.

So what were the upgrades? (see items in bold)

CCDB w/ DSP Ti spring.

Freeride L Build:
Frame: Chumba XCL Black Ano (small)
Shock: Cane Creek Double Barrel w/ Ti Coil (700g)
Fork: Fox 36 Talas 160mm
Crankset: Shimano Deore XT 175mm, Dual Ring + E13 DRS + TurboCharger Bash
Pedals: NC17 Suds Pin III Pedals
Shifters: Shimano Deore XT F/R
Front Deraileur: Shimano XTR
Rear Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow Medium Cage
Seatpost: Thompson Elite
Seat: WTB Devo Carbon / Ti
Clamp: Chumba Racing
Stem: Chromag 50mm
Headset: Cane Creek
Handlebar: Sunline V-One 711mm width, 19mm rise
Grips: Chumba
Brakes: Shimano M775 XT 180 F/R
Wheelset: Mavic Crossmax SX
Casette: Shimano XT 11 – 34T
Chain: Shimano XTR
Front Tire: Maxxis Minion DHF ST 26 x 2.35 – Tubeless
Rear Tire: Larsen TT ST 26 x 2.35 – Tubeless
Approximate Weight: 31.25 lbs

At a hair over 31 lbs, this is an impressive build with a coil shock. Chumba recently partnered with Cane Creek where the shocks are tuned for the XCL suspension. As the XCL suspension is very linear, it makes for a nice even stroke through the travel. I am running a spring rate that is 50lbs heavier (450 vs 400) than I would on my other bike. This is necessary for 1) they’re different bikes and suspension types and 2) it would provide a balance between good pedaling efficiency and the ability to soak up big bumps. Surprisingly even with a coil shock, it pedals beautifully. It climbs well out of the saddle, chugs up technical sections and sprints over rocks with ease. All this with hardly a noticeable bob.

What I love most about the addition of the CCDB is the compression and rebound adjustments for both low and high speed. I’ve been running the shock in the neutral position for low and high speed compression. For rebound, I have been running more HSR and in the middle for LSR. Most of my riding is done in more aggressive trails mixed in with stunts and jumps, which makes the shock a blast to ride because of what it can accommodate. Having 160mm fork with the CCDB shock provides a new level of confidence and has definitely boosted my stoke. It’s now even more fun than I would have imagined. It’s still a fun jumper and predictable in the air, however, now I am more easily tempted to do more. After taking a few warm up runs, I gave myself the green light to let it rip.

Riding the Chumba XCL Freeride L. Photo Brian Roark

New component upgrades with noticeable change.

The shock and other components such as wheels, tires, handlebars and brakes have been a welcomed change to the riding characteristics of the bike. In its previous life, I wouldn’t have been comfortable in pushing it as hard. I was pleasantly surprised that it could handle all the stuff I would normally reserve for my 6.5″ freeride bike.

As outstanding as it is as a jumper, it is even more enjoyable now in how well it can eat up challenging terrain. The jarring rock sections can be pedaled without the sensation of being bucked off. The former RP23 shock had a higher pitch noise going over rocks and I could feel it in my legs and joints. With the CCDB, it’s a low volume, thud, thud, thud sensation; all I notice is my legs working and powering. These sections are now a blast to do. It feels like I have a throttle and I can just turn it to speed through. brrrapppp!!!

Shimano XT brakes. Sunline V-One bars.

Overall the bike feels tighter, more solid and responsive. I attribute this to switching out the carbon bars for the Sunline V-One bars as well as adding the stiffer Mavic Crossmax SX wheels with soft compound tires. This makes perfect sense when you think about the inputs the bike takes from your hands and how it transfers those inputs through the bike and its relationship with the ground. I feel good about saying that the upgrades have surpassed my expectations.

ABOUT CHUMBA:
Chumba is a small bike company and is super responsive. Their technical support and customer service is friendly and easy to work with. You can often find Alan answering questions directly on the Chumba forum at MTBR. You can also find more info at chumbaracing.com or call them directly with your questions 714.986.9100.

GOOD: More capable and versatile for 5″ travel bike. Net benefit: Improved performance. Enhanced riding enjoyment. Trails can be ridden with renewed amptitude.

BAD: A little chain slap on some of the burlier stuff.  A future component consideration would be a 36T chainring vs. 34T as the big chainring has been removed for the bash guard.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

Chumba XCL Frame Review

Why review a frame from 2008 I thought to myself…

Easy. Having spent nearly 2 years in the saddle and on my 3rd iteration of the bike, I felt like I can get into the details on how this bike has held up and how it has evolved in that time. Plus, the 2010 model has remained virtually unchanged.

Chumba XCL. Black Ano.

First off, The Chumba XCL is a trail bike and not a cross country lightweight. The “XC” in the name might throw you into thinking it’s a Cross Country bike, but weighing in at just a tad over 6 lbs (sans shock) it probably won’t turn a lot of heads with the weight-weenie crowds. If you really try, you can get this bike down to a very respectable weight.

As a trail bike though, you’d be hard pressed to find one as durable, versatile and just plain tough as this. Generally speaking, the tradeoff you make with weight, you gain in responsiveness and shredability.

When I first built the XCL up, I mostly rode aggressive single track mixed with technical descents and climbs.

First Iteration. Original Trail build.

1st Iteration:
Frame: Chumba XCL Black Ano (small) w/ Fox RP23 shock
Fork: Fox Float 140mm, rebound and lockout
Crankset: Shimano Deore XT 175mm
Pedals: Time Atac Ti clip-ins
Shifters: Shimano Deore XT F/R
Front Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT
Rear Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow
Seatpost: Thompson Elite
Seat: Chumba Racing
Clamp: Chumba Racing
Stem: Thompson Elite X4 70mm
Headset: Cane Creek
Handlebar: Gravity Light Carbon
Grips: Chumba Racing lock-on
Brakes: Avid Juicy 7’s 180F/160R
Wheelset: Stan’s Flow, Hope Pro II with Hope skewers, DT swiss black spokes, blue aluminum nipples
Casette: Shimano XT 11 – 34T
Chain: Shimano XTR
Tires: Maxxis Larsen TT 26 x 2.0 – Tubeless
Approximate weight: 26 lbs.

Built up, the XCL looks like a beast and is designed to take a beating. When looking at how it’s fabricated, from the bigger tubes used, to the front reinforcement plates, down to the beefy welds, you can begin to appreciate the DH racing lineage (where Chumba has it’s origins). The design is honest and straight-forward. Simple, functional and sexy in its own right. It’s a Corvette amongst Porsche’s and BMWs.

SO HOW’S IT RIDE?

COCKPIT FIT
With a head tube angle of 68° and a seat tube of 72.5°, the XCL is stable and predictable; with a top tube length of 22.5” in a small, it feels open and aggressive – perhaps a smidge long for my preference, but not a biggie since it’s easy to get comfortable with the bike.

CLIMBING
This bike wants to wheelie on some of the steeper climbs because of the slacker geo. An adjustable travel fork would give you the option of dropping the front end down if you’re doing extended climbs. This would compensate for the slackness and make it a more comfortable ride up. If you live for the descents (and climbing is a necessary evil), then this bike should be high on your list. It will make every revolution of the cranks up the hill worth it when you come screaming back down.

DESCENDING
There’s a reason for the beefiness on this bike. As soon as you point this bike down the trail, you will begin to appreciate why the bike was built the way it was built. It loves the descents. It’s predictable and tracks well with a solid feel. The rear end is stiff, working seemlessly with the horst link and shock. There’s not much (if any) lateral movement, so it can get into some tricky off cambers without the fear of getting out of control.

HANDLING & PERFORMANCE
This being my first bike, the more I rode, the more my interest in trails and style of riding evolved. After riding on the bike for about 7 months without changing a thing, I came across some mini ladders that I had to hit. They ranged from 3-5 ft high. The landings were flat and just followed the grade of the trail. I was loving these ladders for a dozen rides until I started releasing from my pedals in the air. Tightening the tension didn’t seem to help and tightening them too much was just unsafe. To make it more safe, it was time to ditch the clipped in pedals and go to flats. The biggest trade off was going to be the climbing performance. At first, it was noticeably more difficult to climb as swiftly, but I figure being safe was a good thing and I’d just have to grow some new muscles.

Second Iteration. Heavy Trail Bike. Maintaining factory geometry.

2nd Iteration:
Frame: Chumba XCL Black Ano (small) w/ Fox RP23 shock
Fork: Fox Float 140mm, rebound and lockout
Crankset: Shimano Deore XT 175mm
Pedals: Sun Ringle CNC Octane Mag Pedals
Shifters: Shimano Deore XT F/R
Front Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT
Rear Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow
Seatpost: Thompson Elite
Seat: Chumba Racing
Clamp: Chumba Racing
Stem: Chromag 50mm
Headset: Cane Creek
Handlebar: Gravity Light Carbon
Grips: ODI Ruffian MX
Brakes: Avid Juicy 7’s 180F/160R
Wheelset: Stan’s Flow, Hope Pro II with Hope skewers, DT swiss black spokes, blue aluminum nipples
Casette: Shimano XT 11 – 34T
Chain: Shimano XTR
Tires: Kenda Nevegal DTC 26 x 2.35 – Tubeless
Approximate Weight: 27.5 lbs

With this new setup, the bike felt more compact with the 50mm stem; I wasn’t feeling like I was riding over the front tire as much on descents.  The flat pedals provided a bigger platform to stand on and the bike was more stable for jumping. Going to bigger tires, I could be more aggressive on lines I had done before. It did feel like a different bike so-to-speak but one that still felt like an old friend. I loved this new setup so much, I kept it like this for a little more than a year.

The redeeming quality of this bike is its responsiveness on twisty single track and berms as well as being able to take jumps and drops. Coming from a BMX background, I started to explore more of what this bike could do. So when the opportunity presented itself (through a few upgrades from another bike), I once again changed up the bike and evolved it into a light freerider. And WOW, what a great decision that was.

Chumba XCL. Third Iteration. Fox 36 Talas. Slacker HTA.

3rd Iteration:
Frame: Chumba XCL Black Ano (small) w/ Fox RP23 shock
Fork: Fox 36 Talas, 160mm RC2
Crankset: Shimano Deore XT 175mm
Pedals: NC17 Suds Pin III Pedals
Shifters: Shimano Deore XT F/R
Front Deraileur: Shimano XTR
Rear Deraileur: Shimano Deore XT Shadow
Seatpost: Thompson Elite
Seat: WTB Devo Carbon / Ti
Clamp: Chumba Racing
Stem: Chromag 50mm
Headset: Cane Creek
Handlebar: Gravity Light Carbon
Grips: ODI Ruffian MX
Brakes: Avid Juicy 7’s 180F/180R
Wheelset: DT Swiss EX5.1, 240S hubs 20mm, 135 x 10mm TA.
Casette: Shimano XT 11 – 34T
Chain: Shimano XTR
Tires: Maxxis Minion DHF/DHR Single ply 26 x 2.35 – Tubeless
Approximate Weight: 29.0+/- lbs

It's a fantastic ride. You'll be grinning too.

I only have about a dozen rides with this setup for the past 2 months. With the Talas travel adjust (100/130/160), it’s like having 2 bikes in one. At the 130mm setting, I’m still able to do some of the longer climbs without noticing any performance degradation. For general riding, single tracks, twisty trails, rocky trails and descents, I ride it at 160 fulltime and LOVE IT.

I’ve taken it out to jump trails and it’s a blast to ride. It’s flickable and light under foot. Its predictable and just as peppy with the slacker angle. Coming out of turns, it’s easy to get cranking and power into the next obstacle. With the beefier Fox 36 and 20mm TA, the front is noticeably stiffer and more confidence inspiring. It handles the g-outs with ease where my old Fox 32 (w/ traditional QR) flexed like a ski.

All this new found goodness comes with only one minor thing I must deal with next – which is a new rear shock. Having ridden this bike enough, the Fox RP23 has met it’s limit. This will be my next upgrade and should round the bike out nicely. I plan to do an addendum review once I get a little more time with the new shock.

Having nearly 2 years on this bike in all its iterations, I’m impressed with its versatility, handling prowess and toughness. It’s definitely a fun bike and if it had to be your one “do-it-all” bike, you could feel assured that it can work and grow with you for years to come. Chumba is a small company with great customer service, you can find them at chumbaracing.com or call them directly with questions 714.986.9100.

GOOD: Quality build, affordable price point, burliness, handling characteristics, tough and versatility (which in my case is an understatement).

BAD: Not a lot here. At about a year, I broke the drive side pivot bolt which was replaced for free by Chumba and I haven’t had a problem since then. The linkage bearings are all doing fine and may need to be replaced as the life on them is roughly 2 years.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

When they arrived, it was like Christmas. The box was a sexy matte black. Well thought-out design and color choices (impressive). I was giddy and was just so careful to open the box – just like the time when I got my new iPhone home. With care of a surgeon, I opened the lid to see the goods. The Elixirs did not disappoint. Oh man, these ARE sexxxiiii. I installed them and took em out for a ride immediately.

Great feeling levers. Contact and reach adjust (no tools)

Bedding in took a few small hills, but once they were bedded in, you could feel that they grabbed very well and that they displayed a fair amount of stopping ability — this impression is also helped by me running 203mm rotors front and rear.  My Knolly DT weighed in at a respectable 35.5 lbs at the time with them on, and it appeared to me the brakes were more than the bike needed. But my preference for brakes is that I don’t like to pull on them unless I really have to, (and generally) I wait longer than the average guy, so big rotors provide a big comfort.

Sleek, small profile and light weight.

Functionally speaking, these brakes are easy to adjust. The big red barrel contact adjustment is nice (just turn it in either direction using the directions printed on the barrel itself) — but one thing to keep in mind is that they only have 2 full revolutions from full open to full contact (they don’t actually make full contact). With gloves on, the reach adjust near the lever hinge is tricky to turn (you couldn’t do this while riding) and still pose a challenge even with bare fingers. Perhaps Avid has corrected this, but from my experience using this feature, I’ll rate them as poor. Luckily, once you set them, you don’t do anything for a while until your pads start to wear.

The levers have a good form factor and feel substantial without being bulky (very comfortable actually). Pulling on them is light and almost effortless on my first few rides. As they broke in, they started to feel better and worked smooth like butta. The Calipers are a sleek, shiny black and mount on without a hitch. Centering them was just a matter of pulling in the levers and then tightening down the 2 anchoring bolts.

I mainly used them for trail riding and light free riding and they did fairly well initially. They were responsive, had a good amount of power. The modulation felt good — I felt pretty confident on them. Although this was all about to change.

All-in-all the honeymoon period lasted about 3 months of flawless use. It was around this time that I started to notice a degradation in performance. The brakes felt hard in terms of feel; the modulation had disappeared. It reminded me of how a set of v-brakes would work. Hell, at one point, I think v-brakes would have been better. I’d been riding a lot of dusty trails and mixed in a few stream crossings; on top of that, I probably hosed the bike off a couple times. So giving them the benefit of a doubt, I figured it was time to service them.

I purchased a bleed kit and proceeded to bleed them. This was fairly easy, even with the myriad of little brass fittings and syringes. After a couple trial runs, I got the hang of it. I spent about 30 minutes to do this and it took me roughly another 30 minutes my first time. I was being careful with them. I figure doing this, I’d be golden. After I bled the calipers and levers, I went to work on the rotors and pads (there was still plenty of material left on them). Using a piece of wet sandpaper, I lightly resurfaced the rotors (and cleaned them with alcahol); then with 200 grit sandpaper I took the glazing off the pads (using a figure 8 motion). Got the bike back together and took it out for a ride. Problem solved…

Indeed, this helped, the brakes felt normal again… uhhh, for a couple weeks. Then, the hard feel along with vibration and howling started to creep in (I’ve also had the very same pattern of issues occur with a set of Avid Juicy 7s on my XC bike). I figure, ok, maybe it’s water on the pads from the streams and so I resurfaced the rotors and pads again. That helped for maybe a couple downhill sections but the problem persisted. I wasn’t willing to give up yet, I rebled the brakes within a 3 week period and no success there either. I went a couple rounds, doing this and that and just came up empty-handed. Now, I’m starting to lose patience. I threw up my hands and decided to just ride them and see if they get better and just to blow it off, since I could still stop. Albeit, not that great. I just had to deal with a little vibration and the ‘effing’ howling.

Fast forward to roughly six months after I put them on my bike and It was time to part ways. The Elixirs in my book are more hype and don’t provide the durability over the long haul and I would rate them similarly with my Juicy 7’s. Based on my experience with these avids, I’m not a fan. There are too many quirks for my liking. For me, time is of the essence. I squeeze in my rides here and there; and am very lucky I can get to my trails without getting in the car. So I’d rather spend time pedaling than fussing with stuff on my bike.

GOOD: Looks amazing. Interfaces well with SRAM Shifters. Lightweight and good stopping power for AM and light duty FR use. They worked as advertised for 3 months.

BAD: So where do I start. Like I said, after 3 months, V-brakes might have been better. They’re no better than my Juicy 7’s. Lost of lever and brake feel after 3 months is unacceptable. Vibrations and howling is a nuisance and a confidence eroder – Grade F.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham

I was looking for a light larger volume tire to replace a set of Maxxis DHF and DHR 26 x 2.35 tires I was riding on my Knolly. When I went searching, my quest was to find a 2.4 tire that I’ve heard great things about, these were the Maxxis Ardent. I was so excited by how light they are, I popped for the 2.25 size as well (to be used on my XC bike that were running 2.35 Kenda Nevegals).

First up the 26 x 2.25
Rolling – rolls very good because of the center tread blocks being closely placed.
Climbing – climbs good for what I was doing, not a whole lot of climbing done on these.
Cornering– on loose to moderately loose sandy soil over hard pack they were not confidence inspiring. You have to be on top of them, the give point is much sooner than I would have expected. I did not ride them in wet conditions since we have none in socal. But I would imagine them being inadequate for wet.
Overall: I heard good things about these tires and wanted to try them. The bigger volume had more downside than upside. Comfortable ride, but think monster truck tires for a second — not really designed to corner going fast? They’re a good tire for those who like to get into terrain but aren’t planning on railing turns. Basically the big volume is like riding a beach cruiser with a fat seat. It’s good to absorb a lot of vibration beyond that it just holds air.

Ardent 26 x 2.4 tread. Super light weight at under 900 grams.

Next up the 26 x 2.4
The rolling and climbing characteristics are good as the 2.25 size (again I don’t climb so I’m not worried about that).
Cornering – The Ardents are better at the 2.4 size… not sure why a 2.25 was even made TBH. Riding slopestyle and bermed tracks this tire did okay (I’m back to Minions now). I still did not feel confident and I could feel the bike sliding when other tires (minions) would continue to rail.
Weight – for the size, these are pretty light and was my main reason for trying them.
Overall: These tires are good for those who do not intend to ride aggressively. On certain bikes, these tires would rub the front deraileurs — so the higher volume is hit or miss, depending on your set up.

You need to stay on top of them if riding aggressively

GOOD: Compared to beefier tires north of 1,000 grams. These are good trail tires for the weight. Under 900 grams is good compared to 1300+ for Maxxis Minions at a comparable size 26 x 2.5. In a couple months worth of riding, I didn’t pinch flat them (running them tubeless might have helped).

BAD: It’s too bad that the same manufacturer that makes my favorite tire (minion) can’t get the Ardents to perform similarly. These tires were on the balloony side and never felt quite right. Just felt on edge the entire time I had them on the bike.

Reviewed by Qwan Pham